Lhotse Expedition is a great, single very high mountain to climb, very close to Everest. Many climbers agree that Lhotse is more difficult to climb than Everest due to the very steep ice and rock sections in the Lhotse couloir. So, you definitely need to be very fit and an experienced climber. There are a few extra advantages, though, the Lhotse climbing permit is much cheaper and there will be no crowds on the mountain from Camp 4 to the summit!
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world and located opposite of Mt Everest’s South face in the Solo Khumbu, Nepal. The South col actually connects Mt Everest and Lhotse to each other, which means that both expeditions follow the same route across the Khumbu Ice Fall and the Western Cwm to camp 3 at the Lhotse face. On the way to Everest Camp 4, just above the Yellow Band, the Lhotse route takes another direction.
Lhotse climbing description: From base camp, the route to the summit can be divided into four separate sections. These distinct sections give the climb tremendous variety, although they do have their individual challenges and hazards. Being able to divide the mountain into four parts also has psychological benefits, enabling climbers to focus on each section and to measure their progress up the mountain more easily.
The Khumbu Icefall -The Khumbu Icefall, the highest ice-bouldering obstacle course in the world, deserves respect.The Icefall is a jumbled morass of ice-blocks, ice towers, and centuries old ice, riven by crevasses, all moving inexorably downwards from the Western Cwm to the Khumbu Valley, below. It is dangerous, as the ice is constantly moving and ice towers can collapse without warning. It is not a place for the uninitiated, except in the company of experienced leaders and Sherpas, who have negotiated its labyrinth many times before. Even then, safety is far from absolute and speed is important, as is an intricate knowledge of the ways of the Icefall that can only have been gained by many passages up and down. Although the exact route changes each year, and throughout the season as we move from hard winter to softer spring, it retains the same essential features and direction from bottom to top.
Climbing in the Icefall, or entering the Western Cwm in the heat of the day, is akin to being in a blast-furnace, so our rate of ascent slows a great deal after the sun rises. So whenever we do go through the Icefall, we will do it as early as is practicable in the morning and aim to get to Camp 1 just as the sun reaches us.
The Western Cwm -A walk into the Western Cwm is to walk into the hall of the mountain gods. It is an awesomely impressive and inspiring place. Gigantic walls tower over you as you move from Camp 1 towards the full expanse of the Cwm above, with the West Ridge of Everest to the left, and the North Face of Nuptse to the right. Here, the Cwm is at its narrowest and the ground reasonably flat. You will find some gaping crevasses across the floor. They are big enough to be measured in terms of double decker buses! This means the crevasses need to have ladders stretched across them, which gives easy access (if not goggled-eyed) to their upper sides, or they have to be walked around. Either way, they add to the sense that having passed through the labyrinth of the Icefall, the gods have set one more task for you to pass before they let you into their inner sanctum. This final test usually includes at least one steep wall of ice, rising straight from the floor to give a vertical step of about 30m/100ft and so to the hallowed ground of the upper Western Cwm.
From here, with the gods gazing down from the mountain upper ramparts, easy (but perhaps exhausting) progress is made to reach Camp 2, nestled below the West Ridge, just short of the foot of the South West Face.
The Lhotse Face -An early start from Camp 2 will see you crossing the upper Cwm to the base of Everest most impressive wall, the Lhotse Face. Early in the season, when the face is still unfettered by human steps, this steep section makes for the most grueling and technically intricate day on the mountain. Gusting winds, snow plumes, and the sight of the steep face above greet you at the base of Lhotse after a steady morning walk to the very end of the Cwm, above Camp 2. Careful footwork will have you ascending this section confidently where the laser-straight ascent, which rises on a slope that seems to touch your nose, is in stark contrast to the zigzag maze of the Icefall below.
Arrival in Camp 3, halfway up the Lhotse Face, gives you a truly rugged, high mountain experience. Platforms, cut just wide enough for the tents, will have been hewn out of the bullet-hard ice by the Sherpas ahead of your arrival. But once that work has been done, its a mass exodus of our Sherpas back down to the comforts below. The Sherpas play by Sagarmatha is rules and for them, a night on these exposed ledges is frowned upon by the mountain gods. Well that what they say, but if it only takes an hour or so to get back here, and if you can be ready for work before the team climbers have even risen for breakfast, why would not you take your rest lower down? For those with slower legs (but seemingly normal hearts and lungs), we settle here on our ledge for one of the most glorious sunsets seen by any human in all time (save the Apollo Astronauts, perhaps!)
Typically, our camp is pitched in the lower neighborhood of Camp 3 (which can sprawl over several hundred metres up the slope) affording us better shelter from the wind than some of the tents perched above. And, after a night of re-hydration and an initial round of oxygen-rich sleep, it is a return to base camp and then all the way off the mountain to Dingboche before you return here just once more, on the way to the top.
Next time, when we leave Camp 3 at 7,400 meters, you will be gripped by the first flush of true summit fever; down-suits donned, Top Out masks fitted, the first hiss of oxygen spreads from tent to tent as valves are cracked open. This marks the first day of climbing on gas and the first stage of your ascent into the death zone.
The view does not disappoint either. The Nuptse Wall forms one half of the crescent bowl surrounding us, and the West Shoulder of Everest the other. Down the valley, the towering peaks of Pumori and Lingtren, which stand with grand presence above Base Camp, now look like anonymous ridges in the vast sea of Himalayan Giants stretching as far away as the eye can see. The village of Base Camp is long out of sight and registers now only by crackling radio transmissions during early morning calls.
The climb from Camp 3 launches another adrenaline-pumping attack on your senses as you inch-up the steep Lhotse Face. Using an ascender on fixed line, you grind up slowly and steadily. After a hard, enduring early morning, the effort is rewarded by a left-hand turn and a traverse across Lhotse toward the famous landmark of the Yellow Band. It has no small relief at this point, as you will have ascended some 1,200-m/3,700-ft from Camp 2. When you look down the sweep of the Lhotse Face, our tents will appear as tiny dots, like peppercorns scattered at your feet.
Having crossed the Yellow Band, the route to Lhotse Camp 4 climbs straight up towards the base of the Lhotse Couloir to a rock blob called the Turtle Shell. Here, at 7,900m tent platforms are cut out.
The Lhotse Couloir -The striking line of the Lhotse Couloir is an obvious feature of the West Face, viewed by climbers as they descend the South East Ridge of Everest. The nature of the couloir changes each year, depending on how much snow is in it, but it is known to have been so narrow in places that climbers have had to bridge across the rock walls. It is about 500m long and can be as steep as 60 degrees in places. From the top of the couloir rock climbing over broken ledges leads to the summit.
Below is the Lhotse Expedition itinerary, and talk to a team of professional expedition guide and leader for more Lhotse expedition travel guide, customized expedition itinerary, and the best cost deal to Lhotse Expedition. We are very happy to see you soon with answer of your entire query.
Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu (1,300m).
Upon arrival at Kathmandu airport, we receive you there and transfer to hotel. We will be waiting you at Kathmandu airport with your name.
Day 2: In Kathmandu
Orientation day in Kathmandu.
Day 3: Kathmandu to Phakding.
Fly to Lukla (2,860m).Trek to Phakding (2,650m).
Day 4: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,450m).
Day 5: Rest and acclimatization in Namche.
Day 6: Trek to Pangboche (3,750m).
Day 7: Trek to Pheriche (4,250m).
Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic.
Day 8: Trek to Dugla (4,600m).
Day 9: Trek to Lobuche (4,900 m).
Day10: Trek to base camp (5,300m).
Day 11: In base camp
Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp.
Day 14: Trek to Pumori base camp, sleep there.
Day 15: Trek to Pumori ABC, return to base camp.
Day 16: Rest in base camp
Day 17: Acclimatization trek to the top of Kala Pattar at 5500 metres, return to base camp
Day 18: Rest in base camp.
Day 19: Climb to camp 1 (5800m). Sleep there.
Day 20: Climb to camp 2 (6200 m) return to camp 1, and sleep there.
Day 21: Rest in camp 2.
Day 22: Rest in base camp.
Day 23: Rest in base camp.
Day 24: Climb to camp 1. Sleep there.
Day 25: Climb to camp 2. Sleep there.
Day 26: Rest in camp 2.
Day 27: Explore route to camp 3 (7300m), return to camp 2, sleep there.
Day 28: Return to base camp.
Day 29: Rest in base camp.
Day 30: Rest in base camp.
Day 31: Rest in base camp.
Day 32: Climb to camp 1, sleep there.
Day 33: Climb to camp 2. Sleep there.
Day 34: Rest in camp 2.
Day 35: Climb to camp 3. Sleep there.
Day 36: Descend to camp 1 or camp 2. Sleep there.
Rest in Base camp or descend to a lower village.
Day 37: Return to base camp.
Day 38: Rest in base camp or descend to a lower village such as Pangboche.
Day 39: Rest in base camp or a lower village.
Day 40: Return to base camp from lower village. Rest in base camp.
Day 42: Attempt summit. Return to camp 4.
Day 43: Return to camp 2, sleep there.
Day 44: Return to base camp.
Day 45: Rest in base camp.
Day 46: Rest in base camp.
Day 47: Rest in base camp.
Second Summit Attempt
Day 48: Climb to camp 2, sleep there.
Day 49: Climb to camp 3, sleep there.
Day 50: Climb to camp 4, sleep there.
Day 51: Attempt summit.
Day 52: Return to camp 2.
Day 53: Return to base camp.
Day 54: Pack up base camp.
Day 55: Trek down to Pheriche.
Day 56: Trek down to Pangboche.
Day 57: Trek to Namche.
Day 58: Trek to Lukla.
Day 59: Flight to Kathmandu.
Day 60: Extra day in Kathmandu.
In case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping.
Day 61: Kathmandu Airport
Final transfers to Kathmandu airport to get fly back to home.