Putha Hiunchuli Expedition involves roped-up glacier climbing with crevasse crossings on moderately-angled snow slopes up to 40 degrees. Fixed ropes will be used on steeper sections of the climb. Team members will need to carry their own gear, melt snow for water and look after themselves on a high and exposed mountain, which is also very cold. Our Sherpa team will assist in establishing the camps on the mountain. The technical difficulty of this expedition is moderate.
To join the expedition and have a good chance of success, you must have a high level of fitness and psychological determination to endure a lengthy expedition in a remote area, climbing at very high altitude in the extreme cold.
Putha Hiunchuli is the western most peak of the Dhaulagiri Range and was first climbed in 1954 by the legendary Jimmy Roberts. At 7,246m it is a serious undertaking, but with no significant technical climbing, it represents an attractive opportunity for those who want to climb very high, but on moderate terrain. For some time we have been looking for an alternative 7,000m peak in Nepal to Baruntse, which we have organised expeditions to on three separate occasions, being successful once. Baruntse is undoubtedly an attractive peak, but it is frequently prone to avalanche and therefore a more objectively dangerous prospect.
Putha Hiunchuli is located in the Dolpo or Wild West of Nepal, made famous by Peter Matthiessen book ‘The Snow Leopard’. This is a remote and seldom-visited area, just getting to base camp is an expedition in itself. The team will fly to Kathmandu and then onwards to Juphal via Nepalgunj, where the trek into base camp begins. It takes 4 - 5 days to reach base camp, which is located at 4,900m. From here we expect to use three camps on the mountain, with the highest at 6,600m. Though the route is technically easy, there are long distances between camps, so you can expect it to be very hard work. Mountaineers with previous experience on 6,000m peaks above could consider this climb if they are looking for a full-blown expedition experience. A next step up might be an 8,000m peak.
Please note that the below itinerary is flexible and subject to change. We are travelling to an extremely remote part of Nepal, with limited infrastructure. Team members need to be flexible and expect changes to the itinerary. Below is Putha Hiunchuli Expedition itinerary, and talk to a team of professional expedition guide, sherpa and leader for more Himlung expedition travel guide, customized expedition itinerary, and the best cost deal to Putha Hiunchuli Expedition. We are very happy to see you soon with answer of your entire query.
Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu
On arrival to Kathmandu, we receive you there and we wait you there with your name and take you to hotel. Team members will be accommodated on a twin share basis rooms. Single rooms are available if you prefer, for which a supplement is payable.
Day 2: At leisure in Kathmandu
While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will be able to explore this fascinating city. As those who have been there before will know, it is a wonderful mixture of crowded bazaars, temples and shrines, in a blend of ancient, colonial and modern architecture. Today, the expedition leader will also check everyone equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy anything missing.
Day 3: Fly to Nepalgunj
As early morning flight to Nepalgunj.
Day 4: Fly to Juphal, trek to Dunai.
During the flight, we can enjoy superb views of the Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and of Manaslu before landing on the unsurfaced runway at Juphal (2,250m). It is a 3 hour trek to Dunai, where we camp for the night at 2,150m.
Day 5: Trek to Tarakot (2,700m, 5 hours)
The trail follows the Thulo Bheri River towards Tarakot.
Day 6: Trek to Musikhola (2,875m)
Day 7: Trek to Kakkotgaon (3,252m)
Day 8: Trek to Yak Kharka (3,855m)
Day 9:Acclimatization at Yak Kharka
Day 10:Trek to Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp (4,900m)
Day 11/25: Climb Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m)
We have set aside two weeks to reach the summit and plan to use three camps above base camp; at 5,400m, 6,000m and 6,600m. This should give us enough time to get acclimatized and make a summit bid in a decent weather window. We would expect to climb to Camp 2 as part of our acclimatization, before descending to base camp for a rest before the summit push. Fixed ropes will be placed on some of the steeper sections of the route between Camp 1 and Camp 2, but much of the climbing will be done moving together as roped teams. No-where is the ground particularly steep, but after fresh snow this could make the going extremely tough. Temperatures on summit day could be as low as -40 degrees celcius.
Day 12 /29: Return trek to Julphal
Day 30:Return flight to Kathmandu
Day 31:Spare day in Kathmandu
A spare day in case our internal flight is affected by bad weather.
Day 32:At leisure in Kathmandu
Today, we have another opportunity to visit the bazaars and to shop for mementoes of our visit. In the evening, we can choose from a host of venues, the Nepali Kitchen, in which to celebrate the success of our expedition in fine style.
Day 33: Kathmandu airport
Final airport departure to get flies back to home.
Note:Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns, the availability of porters and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. We will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!