Mera Peak Baruntse Expedition Climbing

Once arrive in Kathmandu airport, we receive you at airport and drive to hotel. Spend free day in the afternoon.

Kathmandu Tour and prepare for trekking/climbing gear and equipment.

Take 40 minute short fight to Lukla in the morning. It is a memorable flight with the marvelous views of the Eastern Himalaya. Our crew and porters assemble, loads are sorted and after a cup of tea, we are soon on our way down a trail below the air strip to the river at Surke Khola, which brings us, adjacent to the racing glacial waters of the Dudh Kosi. Our route takes a southerly direction along old trade routes, a trail of farm settlements growing subsistence crops such as millet, corn and buckwheat and then as we trek higher, into stands of oaks, maple and rhododendron.

We follow the main trail briefly before turning up a path that leads into the forest and traverses around many ridges to the valley of the Kari Khola. Although our camp elevations are similar for the last days, we are undulating over two major ridges, the Chutok La (2945m) and the Khari La (3080m). As we approach Pangum, set in the base of a small bowl like valley immediately below the Pangum La, we travel through forests of rhododendron, pines and oaks. This is a little known trail used only by the local families and apart from a couple of small settlements along the way we see little evidence of human activity. Pangum is a very old settlement little changed, with a new gompa and expansive views out over the valley.

We climb the half hour or so to the Pangum La (3175m) and our gateway toward the Hinku Valley, and now start to head eastward and then in a northerly direction. Today is a solid descent to the Hinku River of at least 900 metres depending on which path we take, and then a climb up to our camp high on the other side near the Surke La. We are once again traveling through a mix of terraced slopes containing grain crops interspersed by undisturbed forests of the upper temperate zone; maples, rhododendrons and fir.

Climbing up to the Surke La (3085m) we now follow the spine of the Surkie Danda ridge northwards towards Mera and the Hinku and camp part way along at a yak herders clearing or ‘kharka’. These next few days are far from teahouse and trekkers trails and should be some of the finest Himalayan wilderness trekking of the trip.

Continuing along the ridge, we climb higher and higher over knolls (lumps in the ridge) of 4000 metres and then 4500 metres. The terrain has now elevated well above the tree line and is grassy slopes and rocky outcrops and cliffs, where birds of prey may be seen flying overhead such as Griffon vulture, lammergeier or eagles. We then descend to a camp set near a series of five lakes, Panch Pokhari, set beside the river of the Chunbu Drangka.

This is a good time in the program to have a rest day and a lovely natural setting to explore further.

Our route now contours around many ridges on the eastern side of the Hinku, descending lower into forests of rhododendron and scree. Near the valley floor we encounter the devastation caused by a natural damn at the head of the valley bursting in 1998. The valley has been destroyed, leaving boulders, dead trees and silt where once there were old growth forests and meadows. Our campsite is on a pleasant grassy patch, on the now much higher bank of the rocky riverbed.

We are now in the Hinku Valley proper, and cross over by way of a yak herder’s bridge and join the main trail. The first settlement we pass is the busy village of Kote, primarily servicing the trekking groups that come through for Mera. As a result of the tremendous washout of boulders and debris, the trail follows the riverbed mostly, a good trail among rounded stones and silt. We gain our first views of dramatic peaks of the valley; Kusum kanguru to our left and an unnamed peak over 6700m that stands directly before us. The path then weaves up on to the pastures on the left hand side and pleasant easy trails through to Tagnag. Today we also enjoy our first views of Mera, initially at the confluence of the Sanu Drangka above Kote, if the weather is clear we see the dramatic south face, and then on our final approach into Tagnag. We are now among mountains and starting to prepare for our climb.

Tagnag is a location to have an acclimatisation day and we will prepare and check our climbing gear also. There are many good ridges and slopes to trek up for a few hours and spend valuable time acclimatising ourselves at these greater heights. We aim to gain at least 500 metres following a ridge behind the village as a side excursion on this day. There are views of peaks towards Kusum Kanguru and across towards Mera.

A steady approx 4hr climb out of the valley and up through lateral moraine and grassy culverts to our last camp below the snowline. Enroute we will be able to glimpse the remains of the Lake (Sabai Tsho) that has caused so much damage. It is directly fed by some massive, almost vertical glaciers and it is suspected that there was an enormous avalanche of ice into the lake, and subsequently, a wave that broke through the loose rocks forming the wall on its far side. A day is set aside for further preparations for the climb, rehearsal of using harness, crampons and axe, and travelling roped up etc. All members will not travel up on to the mountain and glacier without being briefed and skilled beforehand. Whilst the route itself is fairly straightforward, there are objective hazards and good basic technique and awareness of changing conditions is vital for every individual. Your guide will supervise the entire proceedings on the mountain, from the route taken and timings, and equipment required (we only take what we need for the climb, and the rest of your gear remains at base) through to people’s fitness (mental and physical) to proceed. This means that the guide’s decision is final; he or she is responsible for everyone’s safety and well being throughout the expedition, and no compromise will be made on these aspects. All going to plan and the weather on our side, we would move up to a rock and glaciated camp just off the Mera La saddle at approx 5400m. Plastic mountaineering boots are usually worn from base through to the summit bid and return. Whilst they feel clumsy they are perfect for the job, providing warmth, protection and stability for the variable terrain including loose rocks, snow and ice. Another camp is set half way up the long north slope of the mountain, at about 5700m near a rock knob. Although it is a shorter distance here, it can be difficult in poor conditions and you are at altitude and is harder and further than it first appears, (a common phenomenon in the Himalaya!). The summit bid will be made early in the morning (anywhere from 2 to 5am) from this high camp, and take around 4 to 6 hours to make the summit. Whilst the distance doesn’t look far, we can assure you it will be hard work, and all the preparations and a positive, tempered attitude will pay off here. It is usually necessary to rope up for much of the summit approach due to crevasse hazards along the route. The route can vary depending on the conditions of the season but usually skirts around a major shoulder in front of us to the back side of the mountain and then traverse in a fairly straightforward approach to the summit knob. As the light comes, we enjoy incredible views across to Baruntse (7129m), Chamlang (7319m) and Nau Lekh (6360m) with Makalu (8481m) looming behind. Further to our left is Everest, peaking over several unnamed peaks of the Hinku. To the south we can see for miles down to the terrai. Due to the unstable nature of the final summit knob, it is most likely unsuitable to climb this final section and our designated summit can be made safely nearby. We aim to make the summit early/mid-morning and return to basecamp at Kaare that afternoon. The exact schedule will depend on many factors, including the weather, condition of the route and condition of the members. Our contingency of equipment and experienced staff and a time buffer, gives us a fair amount of flexibility to achieve success for all who have worked hard and consistently from the beginning of the expedition. The day will be long, and this is where all the training beforehand, the trek approach, and the right attitude will combine to give you stamina and confidence to be part of a sound team, with optimum chances for the summit.

Today is a contingency day allowed for inclement weather, and or poor conditions on the mountain. People not wanting or able to continue on to the summit bid on the mountain are able to stay comfortably at our base camp in a grassy hollow with easy short walks possible and mountain views all around. One or two of our staff at least will mind the camp along with the porters.

Feeling tired and exhilarated by our adventure, we pack up and descend into the Honku Valley and proceed to our base camp and main objective of the trip – Mt Baruntse.

Already well acclimatized, we spend the next four days establishing camps and load carrying. Our itinerary during this time is flexible. We ask that all participants follow the advice of the expedition leader and crew at all times and participate actively in the setting up of camps and preparing of meals when required.

Having established C1 on the West Col at 6100m and C2 further up the Baruntse slopes at 6400m we will wait for favourable weather conditions before attempting the summit. The route above C2 requires some fixing and our sherpas will help set up the route. The itinerary is flexible allowing for inclement weather and a prolonged stay in our high camp.

A well deserved restday at BC with ample opportunity to reflect on our climb on Baruntse. We may choose to repack our loads and send some porters and staff back to Lukla via Mera La and the Zatwra La while the rest of us prepare for the challenging crossing of the Amphu Laptsa.

Once again, ferrying across all our loads together with all party members, crew, porters and members takes time. The approach to the pass from the Hunku is deceptive. Facing east and southward there is much more sun and little snow, just a collection of rocks that gradually lead up to the gap we travel through. On the north facing side we find steep slopes of snow that we must take care to descend by fixed ropes to the snow basins below and subsequent moraine and alpine valley beyond. The views from this 5780m pass crossing to the peaks of Khumbu are unmatched. Any spare moment one may have whilst we are climbing and descending will allow one to appreciate the spectacle of the peaks of the region.

An easy day trekking downs the valley towards the small settlement of Chukkung where we hopefully will partake in a celebratory drink or two.

We begin our exit trek descending through the famous Khumbu Valley to Namche Bazaar. Namche is known as the Sherpa capital and it is a great place to wonder around, visit the Tibetan stalls or enjoy the Swiss bakeries.

It is a long, long way to the relatively steamy environment of Lukla, so take your time, but maintain your pace or it will be a very long day. Most people don’t need too much encouragement on our last day’s trek, with the thought of cold drinks and so on and a chance to put your feet up. It goes without saying that a good end of trek party will go off tonight.

All going well, we will fly out of this small mountain airstrip on a very spectacular flight back to Kathmandu. On arrival, we will be met and transferred to the Radisson Hotel where there is no fixed program for the rest of the day. You can relax or shop, explore as you please.

The trip concludes in Kathmandu after breakfast with a transfer to the airport.