Tsum Valley Manaslu Trek 20 days

A westward 70km scenic drive along the Prithvi Highway, through the forested Middle Hills, leads to Malekhu. A 30km secondary tarred road heads north, over the Trisuli Nadi, towards Dhading Besi and a rutted 35km dirt road northwest to Arughat on the Budhi Gandaki. The dirt road winds upwards towards the Gola Bhanjyang where panoramic views of the southern slopes of the Ganesh, Baudha and Manaslu Himals should be possible. The road then drops to cross the Ankhu Khola and later, at Arughat, the Budhi Gandaki that drains the Manaslu – Tsum region. A further ~3 hrs drive up the west bank of the river leads to Soti Khola.

After breakfast, today’s trail rises gradually through beautiful Sal forests. It then undulates over forested and terraced ridges passed numerous waterfalls. The trail is generally narrow, at times clinging to the sides of cliffs. It later drops to pass rice paddies before climbing to the attractive Gurung village of Labubesi (885m/2,800ft). After crossing a suspension bridge at the spectacular Nauli Khola falls, the valley opens out and the trail drops onto gravel banks along the river before rising slightly to the village of Machha (Fish) Khola.

The trail follows the river, with minor ups and downs, often dropping to the gravel bar before crossing the Thado Khola and on up to Khorlabesi. A trail from Gorkha joins the Manaslu circuit here and the GHT trail turns east from the Manaslu to the Langtang and Everest regions. Our trail then enters a lush narrow gorge. Beyond is a landslide with a dicey path, shortly before the triple hot spring spouts in Tatopani From the Hot spring we climb over another ridge, then cross the Budhi Gandaki on a suspension bridge. Climb on over a ridge to Dobhan. Crossing a suspension bridge over the Dobhan Khola, the trail climbs on a rugged trail to Duman. Crossing a suspension bridge over the Yaru Khola we climb the stone stairs and then drop to the river and again climb more stone stairs to Tharo Bharyang. Trek along the Budhi Gandaki river then climb towards the village of Jagat.

Climb over a rocky ridge to Salleri, and then descend to Setibas. The valley widens a bit as the trail continues up to Ghatta Khola. Continue upstream to a long suspension bridge. Climb up to Philim, a large Gurung village.

Walk past Philim to the north across a forest with the views of the narrowing valley. After Ekle Bhatti cross the gorge, and enter the pine tree forests. Descend down to trail going to the Tsum Valley. Climb through pine and rhododendron forests. Enjoy the views of Himalchuli mountains. Pass Lokpa, climbing further north through pines and rhododendrons. Climb down to Ghumlong, and climbing up to Ripchet. Crossing the Shiar Khola, finally arrive at Chumling. Visit the old Chumling gompa, and the stone streets of the village.

Cross the suspension bridge onto the opposite bank. Enjoy the great views of Ganesh Himal. Walk past Rainjham to Serpu Khola. Now we enter the hidden valley of Tsum. Another steep climb takes us to the village of Chhokangparo. Weather permitting, enjoy the views of Himalchuli at 7893 meters.

While climbing above Chokhangparo, better to be careful of altitude problems. Walk past Lamagaon to the Rachen Gompa. Climb up to the Milarepa’s Cave. Then we cross the Shiar Khola. Continue walking through the villages of Phurbe and Pangdun. After crossing the village of Chhule, climb upstream and cross the bridge to finally arrive at Nile.

Make an early start for the 2hr walk up to the 77 year old Mu Gompa with another ¾ hr stiff hike up to the small 856 year old Dephyu Doma Nunnery (place of the birth of light) which is superbly situated at 4,000m/13,100ft on a small promontory; with Ganesh II as its primary view. Views of the western Ganesh Himal are visible to the left of an intervening peak. Mu only has the latter view (including Ganesh I) and a view back down the valley. Mu is the highest permanent settlement in the Tsum Valley. To the north are seasonal kharkas and passes to Tibet. Return to Nile for lunch, then trek back to Chhekampar.

Breakfast and trek down to Lokpa for 6-7 hours. Stay night at Lokpa.

Brekfast and continue manaslu circuit trek trail to Deng for 5-6 hours and stay night at Deng.

The initial part of today’s trek is on a relatively flat terrain. Soon, the trail moves uphill through the forest path. Thus we arrive at Namrung while enjoying at the same time the magnifiscent views of Manaslu, among others.

From Namrung, we again enter the Buddhism influenced region. Climb through the forest to Lihi. Enjoy the spectacular rise of the Ganesh Himal. Descend to Sho. Another steep climb takes us to our today’s campsite on a ridge.

The Budi Gandaki is far down but we follow a small tributary instead. Walking in the shady fir forest is very enjoyable. A short climb to a plateau and the village Shyala. Huge mountains surround us, Himal Chuli and Peak 29 (Ngadi Chuli) to the left, Manaslu and large glaciers straight ahead, other snow summits to the right, at the far end of the valley we have just come from stands Ganesh Himal. At the far end of the village, overlooking the valley stands the well-known monastery of Sama. Sama Gaon is a village inhabited mainly by the Tibetans and lies at the foot of Manaslu.

Descend to the Budi Gandaki, that has turned north, and follow it to a bridge over a side stream. The trail to the left leads to the Manaslu Base camp. The Larkya la Trail passes several mani walls as the valley begins to widen. It is an easy trail on a shelf above the river passing the juniper and birch forests of Kermo Kharka. We drop off the shelf, cross the Budhi Gandaki on a wooden bridge and climb steeply onto a promontory between two forks of the river. From a stone arch we can see a large white kani, finally passing through the kani we find Samdo.

We continue our walk down the edge, cross the wooden bridge over Budi Gandaki and begin walking upward. Cross two streams and witness the Larkya Glacier. Go around the valley of the Salka Khola and climb up again and come to the stone guest house (4450 m) which is not a lodge but a kind of shelter called Dharmshala, also known as Larkya Phedi. We camp here today and have a rest to prepare for tomorrow’s crossing of the famous and most awaited Larkya Pass. After a short climb, we reach the ablation valley on the North side of the Larkya Glaciers.

After an early start, we soon walk across the moraines of the glacier, making a gradual ascent which becomes steeper only in the last section to the pass. From the pass, there are outstanding views of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kangguru and the huge Annapurna II. Savor the spectacular views from the top of the pass. It is a longer day then usual to Bimtang, but to walk into these low pastures with the evening mist coming in and Manaslu; it’s an experience not to be missed.

We will descend a great height today. Initially, from the valley of Burdin Khola, through rhododendron forests, to Karche, the highest cultivating place in the valley. Then we descend to the village of Gho. While staying on the north bank of the river, we trek into Tilje. Leave the Tilje Village, and cross the Dudh Khola. Cross a wooden bridge back to the northern side of the Dudh Khola. Continue to Dharapani.

The remainder of our trek follows trails used on the first few days of the Annapurna Circuit Trek. We descend to the Marsyandi River and cross the suspension bridge. Climb up and away from the river and hike through a broad, flat valley to the village of Tal (1,675m), situated at the foot of a large waterfall. The trail continues on to Chyamje. From Chyamje, trekking up and down along the river, we reach Jagat. A steep trail descends from Jagat through the Marshyangdi valley. Cross Marshyangdi River at Syange and walk to Ghermu.

The Marsyandi valley opens and on its banks terrace fields and villages clung very high to the hillsides are the age-old work of the Nepalese farmers. We cross several interesting villages such as Bhulbhule, Khudi, etc. Then we walk on a flat part alongside the left bank of the Marsyandi. A last walk up for reaching Besi Sahar, a dusty and busy place which marks the end of our trek and the beginning of the civilization.

A 7 to 8 hours’ of picturesque drive on the way back to Kathmandu along the banks of the Marsyangdi and Trishuli rivers with splendid views of green hills, mountains, farming terraces and villages on both sides of road. In Kathmandu, transfer to your hotel and spend the rest of the day resting or catching up on some last minute shopping. The trip ends.